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+---- Thread: Clearing Codes (/thread-2987.html)
Clearing Codes - Gunnen4u - 05-12-2012
I hate modern engines and their *computer systems*. I just replaced a $50 knock sensor, and the check engine light is still on. So, now what - oh wait, I need to go drop some money on a code reader or some shit, or pay out the nose to have some bumpkin bastard use his code reader to figure it out?
I know for certain it was the rear knock sensor since I paid $30 to have a complete read of things at a local shop, and I put in a brand new one just today -- there was nothing else brought up before on the code reader and I made sure to triple check my work in order to prevent anything else going wrong. I am not incompetent by any means.
Do I just need to have the code cleared now? Is that going to cost me more money that I am already running low on? May as well shell out for a code reader?
Fucking hate modern bullshit.
RE: Clearing Codes - Twitchin Kitten - 05-12-2012
If anyone knows the answer to this (if it's not all rhetorical) it would be LKTraz. Hopefully he pops on later today for you.
I hate the computerized engines too. Everything is hooked up to something electrical and there's wires everywhere. It's not as efficient as they think or try to have you believe. Give me no fuel injection, no catalytic converters, and a carburetor and I'm happy.
RE: Clearing Codes - Gunnen4u - 05-12-2012
I generally don't have a problem with things be they mechanical or electrical on an engine, but fuck, it's costing money I REALLY can't be spending at present.
RE: Clearing Codes - Biker Dude - 05-13-2012
My experience is yes, you just need the code cleared. Around here a couple of the parts stores will do it for free, or let you take the code reader for a deposit.
My daughter in law bought a 2002 jeep grand cherokee that the check engine light came on in month 2. Reader said cylinder 5 had misfired. Cleared it, check engine light went off, and has stayed off.
RE: Clearing Codes - Twitchin Kitten - 05-13-2012
(05-12-2012, 08:35 PM)Gunnen4u Wrote: I generally don't have a problem with things be they mechanical or electrical on an engine, but fuck, it's costing money I REALLY can't be spending at present.
I swear it's on purpose so someone else can make money off you. Kind of like the one hand washes the other theory - it's an endless circle of bullshit to get you to spend money you should be keeping in your pocket.
RE: Clearing Codes - LKTraz - 05-13-2012
All righty then......
Try this first: Disconnect the positive battery terminal and leave it off for 30 minutes to an hour.
You might want to disconnect both terminals and clean them while you're at it. No sense wasting a good opportunity to do some often forgotten maintenance!
After you reconnect the terminals the code may have cleared. If not, get to an Advance, O'Reilly's, Checker, Shucks, Kragen (all the same chain BTW) or Auto Zone and they most likely will put the reader on and clear it for you for free. Just tell them what the deal is and say that you want to be sure that there isn't another problem that needs attention.
The possibility for a parts sale usually motivates them to give it a look and wanting to keep a good customer service image generally gets them to clear the code for free. Do the right thing then and buy something inexpensive that you need or could use. (If you so desire that is.)
Let me know how it works out.
RE: Clearing Codes - Gunnen4u - 05-13-2012
Called up my brother who called up the guy at O'Reilly's, and got the response, that yes, WE could clear the code with their reader, but not them. The assholes at the other location here in town were all antsy about code anything when I visited them. Likely to make a sale.
Anyhow, I didn't know how to operate it, so my brother did and now all is well. It even found something wrong, a plug I forgot to reconnect. Did that, and everything's kittens.
PITA, but next time I will just leave the battery cables off for more than a minute.
RE: Clearing Codes - LKTraz - 05-14-2012
Glad to hear you got it resolved.
The 30 - 60 minutes without power re-boot should always be the first thing to try. Most ECMs will "reset" and clear any active codes that way. (Old backyard mechanic trick!
)I have had LOTZO people going nuts with check lights, bells, whistles and other various code generated shit going on after a DIY repair and in 98% of these cases the no power reset worked.
A basic code reader isn't such a bad investment these days but then again most DECENT auto parts stores will hook theirs up and give you the lowdown for free.